Pearl
Pearls, the best-loved gems of all time, are the enchanting birthstone for June which originates from oceans, lakes and rivers around the world.
Long known as the “Queen of Gems,” pearls possess a history and allure more compelling than any other gem. In fact, a beautifully matched strand of natural pearls is a treasure of incomparable value.
Given the incredible rarity of natural pearls, today’s cultured pearls combine the beauty of nature with the genius of man to create an organic gem available in a wide array of styles and prices. The most familiar colors are white and cream. Black, gray, and silver are also fairly common. The main color, or body color, is often modified by additional colors, called overtones, which are typically pink, green, purple, or blue.
Definition:
Pearls are organic gems that grow inside the tissue of a living salt water or fresh water mollusk (either an oyster, or mussel). Natural Pearls form when the mollusk secretes a substance called nacre around an irritant such as a piece of sand or a parasite that has invaded its shell. Cultured Pearls are a product of human intervention. Technicians implant a piece of mantle tissue alone (common for freshwater cultured pearls), or with a mother-of-pearl shell bead (all salt water) into a host mollusk. Implanted material encourages the mollusk to begin producing a rich and luxurious material, called nacre, to cover the irritant. This creates the pearl’s lustrous outer glow, just like a natural pearl. Cultured Pearls are raised in Pearl farms – salt water or fresh water operations where the mollusks are cleaned, protected from predators and eventually harvested.
Cultivated in both fresh and saltwater, cultured pearls come in many different shapes and colors. The most popular shapes have traditionally been round, but more unusual shapes like baroque and button are also available. Colors range from white and cream to gray and black, as well as rich purples, golds and yellows.
Most of the lighter shades of cultured pearls are mildly bleached to even out their color. Cultured pearls are sometimes tumbled to enhance roundness. They may be dyed to produce overtones of pink or strong body colors like teal, magenta or gold. Occasionally cultured pearls are irradiated to create strong iridescence or dark hues like black or gray.
The History of Pearls:
Pearls are a timeless wardrobe staple, beloved by women of all ages. The origin of pearls fascinated our forbearers. Ancients from the Middle East believed that Pearls were teardrops fallen from Heaven. Many cultures associate this gem with the moon. In ancient China, pearls were believed to guarantee protection from fire and fire-breathing dragons. The Chinese fancied that the June Birthstone came from the brain of a dragon. In Europe, they symbolized modesty, chastity, and purity. Christopher Columbus and his contemporaries thought that mollusks formed pearls from dew drops.
Thousands of years of pearl fishing have decimated the natural pearl beds, so cultured pearls account for the vast majority of pearl sales today. Those cultured pearl birthstones come in a dazzling array of sizes, colors and shapes.
The pearl birthstone was also thought to have beneficial properties. In the ancient Sanskrit text the Atharvaveda, pearls were said to bestow long life and prosperity. In Asia, pearls were believed to help alleviate indigestion and hemorrhages. Some 19th century Arab physicians maintained that pearl powder improved eyesight, quieted nervous tremors and eased depression.
One of the most famous natural pearls is a 50.56 carat pearl called “La Peregrina”. About the size of a pigeon’s egg, the drop shaped pearl was discovered in the 1500s in the Gulf of Panama. It became a prized possession of European Royalty. Richard Burton, the actor, eventually gifted it to Elizabeth Taylor in 1969; Christie’s in New York auctioned the Cartier necklace containing “La Peregrina” for $11.8 million in 2011.
Symbolism:
Pearls have long been associated with purity, humility and innocence. So it may be said that the June birthstone meaning is “sweet simplicity”. As such, pearls were traditionally given as a wedding gift.
Coastline of Guangdong Province in China
Location:
Warm waters . . . clear skies . . . dramatic scenery – it sounds like a dream beach vacation. It’s also an accurate description of where you can find these pearl birthstones. Pearl-bearing mollusks fail to thrive in polluted waters, so pearl farms are usually located far from civilization.
Salt water cultured pearls are grown in many areas around the world. Akoya cultured pearl farms are primarily found in Japan and China, especially along the southern coasts of Guangdong and Guangxi provinces. These white, cream and silver pearls are the most familiar to most people in the U.S. and western markets. South Sea cultured pearls are farmed from the northern coast of Australia through Indonesia to the southern coast of Southeast Asia, with large operations in the Philippines as well. These white to silver, or golden pearls are usually larger and have thick nacre and are highly valued. The Gambier Islands and the Tuamotu Archipelago, both part of French Polynesia (the most familiar of these is Tahiti), are two locales where the rich black Tahitian Pearls are cultured. These have a wide color range from gray, black or brown and have blue, green, purple, or pink overtones. China is the dominant source of fresh water cultured pearls. These are quite popular among shoppers and jewelry designers because of their remarkable range of sizes, shapes and colors.
Natural pearls have been found in the Arabian Gulf (Persian Gulf) for at least 5,000 years, while divers have been recovering the June birthstone from the Red Sea since 300 BCE. The trait of Mannar has been providing pearls since 2000 BCE. Starting in the 16th century, during the Spanish colonial rule, large quantities of pearls were recovered from the waters off Mexico, Central America and what is now Venezuela. Only small quantities of pearls are found in those areas today.
Care & Cleaning:
Pearls are 2.5 to 3.0 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, so they are a comparatively soft gem and require special care. Store them separately from other gemstones and metal jewelry to prevent scratching. Never store your pearl birthstones in a plastic bag – plastic can emit a chemical that will damage their surface.
Cultured pearls are softer than most gemstones but durable enough for everyday wear. Because oils, soaps and chemicals can damage the beautiful nacre, you should always apply cosmetics, perfumes and hair products before putting on your pearls. Wipe your pearls with a dry, soft cloth after each wearing. Never clean cultured pearls with any harsh chemical, and only use a commercial jewelry cleaner specifically made for cultured pearls. The safest cleaning method is using a mild soap and lukewarm water solution, wiping with a soft cloth. Always lay strands flat to dry to prevent the cord from stretching. To ensure years of enjoyment, be sure to have your cultured pearl strands inspected regularly and re-strung as needed by a Graduate Gemologist from GIA.
Why We Love This Gem
Luster: Luster results from reflection of light rays off the pearl’s surface, and from concentric inner layers of nacre, like light bouncing off a convex mirror.
Imitations: Imitation pearls are smooth when rubbed against your teeth, while natural and cultured pearls have a slightly rough texture.
Natural Pearls: Natural Pearls can be separated from cultured pearls by taking X-rays to reveal their inner structures.
LUSTER
Pearls with high luster have sharp bright reflections on the surface..
SURFACE QUALITY
The number of blemishes on a pearl’s surface is evaluated to judge quality.
SHAPE
Spherical Pearls are the most valued, but symmetrical drops are also sought.
COLOR
Although white is most classic, appreciation has grown for more unusual natural colors.
NACRE THICKNESS
Nacre thickness is evaluated to make sure that cultured pearls are durable as well as beautiful.
SIZE
Cultured Pearls range from 2 to 16 mm in diameter, depending on the mollusk used.
MATCHING
For Pearl strands and multi-pearl pieces, how well the pearls match (or mix) affects the value.